Manual or via software? An old debate. Both approaches have advantages — and the right answer depends less on personal preference than on the situation. We explain when each option is the better choice.
When manual installation is the right way
When you know exactly what you have
For a single, specific device — like a brand-new graphics card or a Realtek codec on a known motherboard — manual installation is simple, fast, and unambiguous. You go to the manufacturer's website, download the right version, install. Done.
When the system has run for years without changes
An office PC that has been working stably for three years rarely needs new drivers. If something does — for a fresh peripheral or after a Windows feature update — a single, targeted manual install is more sensible than a full system scan.
When you want full control
Some IT pros (and ambitious power users) want to know exactly which driver version goes where. They build their system as a craftsman — every part deliberately chosen. For them, manual installation is the natural method.
When a driver-updater software is the better choice
For systems with many devices
An average notebook has 20–40 different drivers — chipset, graphics, audio, Wi-Fi, Bluetooth, fingerprint reader, webcam, touchpad, fan controller, ACPI… checking each one individually is unrealistic. A driver updater scans the whole system in seconds.
When security matters
Modern driver updaters compare installed drivers against CVE databases. They detect not only outdated versions but also known vulnerable drivers (BYOVD risk) — a check that hardly anyone can do manually for 30+ drivers.
For older PCs whose manufacturer support has expired
An eight-year-old laptop usually has no manufacturer support left. The original support page lists only outdated versions or has been taken offline entirely. A driver updater identifies the real chip behind the device name (e.g. "Realtek RTL8723BE Wi-Fi") and finds the current generic driver from Realtek directly.
AVG Driver Updater scans 100+ million driver versions and compares against the CVE database — for safety AND speed.
The hybrid approach: best of both worlds
Many users — including the authors of this site — use a hybrid approach:
- Critical drivers manually: graphics card driver always directly from Nvidia/AMD/Intel. The latest Game Ready version cannot wait for a third-party scan.
- Everything else via software: chipset, audio, Wi-Fi, USB controllers — the boring drivers that nevertheless cause problems when outdated.
- Quarterly full scan: once per quarter a complete check via a driver updater catches everything that fell through the manual cracks.
Warning signs of bad driver-updater software
Not every driver updater is trustworthy. Bad ones include:
- Unrequested toolbar/AdWare during installation — typical for free-but-shady tools
- Pressure tactics ("23 critical drivers found! Update immediately!")
- Charge for downloads — drivers are free; only the service should be paid
- Silent installations without showing you what's being changed
- Dubious driver sources — outdated or pirated drivers from no-name sites
Trustworthy driver updaters (AVG Driver Updater belongs to this category) follow these principles:
- Sources are exclusively the manufacturers themselves
- WHQL-certified drivers are preferred
- Restore points are created automatically
- Every update is shown transparently before installation
- CVE database is queried
Further sources
Authoritative sources for deeper information:
Frequently asked questions
For basic functionality: yes. For best performance, latest features, and security fixes: often not. Windows Update drivers are usually 1–6 months behind the manufacturer version, and Windows Update sometimes leaves out certain manufacturer drivers entirely.
No, that's a valid approach. The question is just whether you're actually doing it for ALL drivers — or only for graphics card and audio. The rest then ages silently in the background.
Sounds like a bad tool. A reputable driver updater always creates restore points, only changes one driver at a time, and lets you roll back. Bad tools install the entire batch without restore point.
Open Device Manager → Sound → properties of the audio device → Details → Hardware IDs. The Hardware-ID like "HDAUDIO\FUNC_01&VEN_10EC&DEV_1220" reveals it (DEV_1220 = ALC1220).
No — and that's good. BIOS updates are critical and should always be done manually via the motherboard manufacturer's tool. A driver updater can warn that a BIOS update is available, but should never apply one itself.
Often even more useful than for new hardware! Old hardware often has discontinued manufacturer support, but the chip itself (Realtek, Atheros, etc.) is still supplied with generic drivers — and a driver updater finds those.